Beijing Hutons
Urban growth in China has created tremendous demand for housing and retail space. The resultant construction of new high-rise structures frequently has come at the expense of established and often historic buildings and neighborhoods..In Beijing, decades of development have resulted in the demolition of many of the city’s traditional housing areas or Hutongs. Semester at Sea voyagers participating in a field program to Beijing had the opportunity to visit and have dinner with a family living in one of the preserved Hutong areas.
Following a tour of the Heavenly Temple during the afternoon, students boarded two person pedicabs and were driven through the narrow streets of the Hutongs. Dating back centuries, these housing areas are made up of numerous walled quadrangles each with residences surrounding a central courtyard.
After a short walk down a narrow side alley and through a wooden-gate, eighteen voyagers were greeted by their hostess, a 55-year old retiree from an auto accessory plant . They entered the house was through a small kitchen and into two multiple purpose rooms that served as sleeping, dining, storage and living areas. A small bathroom, a luxury in many hutongs, was accessible from the sleeping room. Heating which was previously provided by a coal briquette stove had recently been upgraded to electric.
During the New Year celebration the Chinese traditionally have stuffed dumplings for dinner. This evening the Semester at Sea voyagers received a hands on lesson in dumpling making. Small rounds of dough are rolled into thin sheets, filled with a cooked cabbage and pork mixture, then folded and pinched closed. All had an opportunity to try their hand with the understanding that these dumpling would be part of dinner.
Everyone sat down to dinner around two tables and feasted on simple, but hearty fare - peanuts, cooked greens, vegetables, chicken, , fish, rice and dumplings which of course were delicious. After dinner, their hostess told students that the people who live in the Hutons generally have no desire to leave even though more modern apartments may be available. The location, in the heart of the city with easy access to public transportation, is one reason, but it is the sense of shared history and community that keeps residents from moving. She explained that she and her husband have lived in this same house for more than 30 years. Their friends live in the neighborhood. Their son was born and lives here. This is their home!
And while riding in pedicabs back to the bus while neighborhood fireworks lit up the sky, many of the voyagers sensed that familiar feeling of community, and it felt good.